I am my own worst enemy. After cats. And arachnids. Don’t even get me started on spiderfelines.

Urique mornings. “You’re an inspiringly tenacious little bastard, Mr. Fuzzynuts,” I grumble halfheartedly as my well endowed feline foe zips past me when I open the kitchen door, leaving behind him a mess of crumbs where I’d left my bread, again. Breakfast comes fresh from the trees. The membrane between sections is what makes grapefruit […]

Read More I am my own worst enemy. After cats. And arachnids. Don’t even get me started on spiderfelines.

Stop motion living

I’m staying at Entre Amigos, a beautiful name for a lonely place on the edge of town. Peanuts, squash, lemons and grapefruits all grow abundantly in the orchard where my hammock is strung up. My only company here is Tomas the groundskeeper with his sheepish smile and old work jeans labelled Dolce & Gabbana. It’s […]

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The way of the guey

How to cross the border into Mexico: Go towards Mexico. Pass the US Border. There, you’re done! The Mexican frontier has no customs or immigration from the U.S. side, though they are hardly so lax with their neighbours to the South. Borders seem to be a one-way economic valve around here. Crossing into Juarez is […]

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The soft side of the ragged edge

Cold droplets on my face wake me instantly. It is drizzling and the mosquito net is jewelled with water. The pines are grey under cloudy morning; light seeps in from beyond the horizon where the sun has already risen. I pack quickly in the early chill, breaking my fast with single-serving peanut butter packets before […]

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Wild creatures rise with the sun. I pack up my gear in near darkness, sit again to listen to the canyonwind lullaby, watch the sky lighten. I realize I want to spend weeks here. I need to spend weeks here. This whole part of the world, it soothingly overwhelms my wanderlust with its endlessly layered […]

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Today I reach the Grand Canyon. My usual indirect trajectory takes me through Horseshoe Bend, Vermillion Cliffs, Marble Canyon, damn impressive places to behold. With each new sight I am inspired and concerned – this journey is strengthening my wanderlust even as it appeases it. Like so many places I’ve passed before, the Grand Canyon […]

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The bountiful wastelands

Barren. The landscape before me is apocalyptically empty en route to Moab. A flash of colour from a hill lures me to trek and discover a crafted flower and a jellyfish fossil. The wasteland undulates lazily into the distance. I foresee a long, unremarkable ride ahead. I love it when I’m wrong. Adjectives begin to […]

Read More The bountiful wastelands