Urique mornings. “You’re an inspiringly tenacious little bastard, Mr. Fuzzynuts,” I grumble halfheartedly as my well endowed feline foe zips past me when I open the kitchen door, leaving behind him a mess of crumbs where I’d left my bread, again. Breakfast comes fresh from the trees. The membrane between sections is what makes grapefruit […]Read More I am my own worst enemy. After cats. And arachnids. Don’t even get me started on spiderfelines.
I’m staying at Entre Amigos, a beautiful name for a lonely place on the edge of town. Peanuts, squash, lemons and grapefruits all grow abundantly in the orchard where my hammock is strung up. My only company here is Tomas the groundskeeper with his sheepish smile and old work jeans labelled Dolce & Gabbana. It’s […]Read More Stop motion living
A desert rises ahead and falls behind on the journey to Creel. I can’t stop and see everything, to my chagrin. What I would give for another hundred years on this earth… The route, though quickly deteriorating to remote gravel roads, is surprisingly well signed. Gotta get that infrastructure taken care of to shuttle beer […]Read More The one with the booze and the nature.
How to cross the border into Mexico: Go towards Mexico. Pass the US Border. There, you’re done! The Mexican frontier has no customs or immigration from the U.S. side, though they are hardly so lax with their neighbours to the South. Borders seem to be a one-way economic valve around here. Crossing into Juarez is […]Read More The way of the guey
Cold droplets on my face wake me instantly. It is drizzling and the mosquito net is jewelled with water. The pines are grey under cloudy morning; light seeps in from beyond the horizon where the sun has already risen. I pack quickly in the early chill, breaking my fast with single-serving peanut butter packets before […]Read More The soft side of the ragged edge
I’m done in Page. Strike gold in the breakfast buffet – today they have a bacon tray. And I’m off. From the desert rise strange forms and images to occupy my mind with questions as I ride towards Flagstaff. I’ve been fortunate to find myself invited to Arizona’s airy heights where Lost will gain a […]Read More The best paths, like the best stories, are discovered for oneself
First order of business in Page is to explore; it’s actually an interesting place to walk around. While chatting with Ron, owner of a local coffee shop, I ask about The Steps, a hike Korey told me about last night. He insists on getting my family’s contact info in case I don’t return. I thank […]Read More If all your friends jumped off a 90 foot cliff…
Wild creatures rise with the sun. I pack up my gear in near darkness, sit again to listen to the canyonwind lullaby, watch the sky lighten. I realize I want to spend weeks here. I need to spend weeks here. This whole part of the world, it soothingly overwhelms my wanderlust with its endlessly layered […]Read More Bittersweet
Today I reach the Grand Canyon. My usual indirect trajectory takes me through Horseshoe Bend, Vermillion Cliffs, Marble Canyon, damn impressive places to behold. With each new sight I am inspired and concerned – this journey is strengthening my wanderlust even as it appeases it. Like so many places I’ve passed before, the Grand Canyon […]Read More Sublime
Barren. The landscape before me is apocalyptically empty en route to Moab. A flash of colour from a hill lures me to trek and discover a crafted flower and a jellyfish fossil. The wasteland undulates lazily into the distance. I foresee a long, unremarkable ride ahead. I love it when I’m wrong. Adjectives begin to […]Read More The bountiful wastelands